3D Printing to Metal Casting/Lost PLA

See my other lost PLA Casting videos and use of Wax Filament, links in the description.

Buy a new mic man

That's great for a little project at home when you only need 1

So do you not remove the 3d printed material? it just melts from the aluminum?

Can be seen that the fire damage the plaster mold inside on the final piece, the bottom is rough while the top is more accurate, the fires and heat burn the plaster and make holes, or burned particles goes on the plaster.

how to connect cura to my prusia i3 3d printer ??

I'm totally confused. After the plaster/sand mix has set, you do a 'burn-out, but your explanation was very bad: you gabbled it and didn't explain it properly AND, just at that point, the wind picked up and your voice is almost inaudible.

Just an IMO, but for part like this it's probably will be simpler to make whole styrofoam, since You already have hot wire cutter. Is there any benefits for this particular case?

contact no plz

Did you take into account the volume the aluminium shrinks when it cools, when you made the 3D model?

REALLY REALLY COOL! I've wondered before if this was possible but didn't think it would burn out clean enough for casting… guess that answers THAT question! ^_^

Cool to see someone take something from concept through to 3D printing and then an actual item like this. Neat way to do the casting, too, never seen that before with the plaster for a mold instead of sand.

Learned some new stuff here. Thanks!

Just a few questions.

Have you tried to cast your printed plastic patterns directly in the sand? Compared to making a plaster mold and melting the pattern to leave a cavity.

What kind of plastic are the patterns printed with?
Will it not melt quickly enough from pouring the molten metal directly onto it?

COOL

water soluble filament is perfect for making mold.

So "several hours" with during the "burning out" process with your barbecue grille set to 500 or 600 degrees? Thats real efficiency. How many total hours did you have in that "rotor" (generally they're called armatures BTW) when it was all said and done? How fast does the motor run and how much vibration? And why use ABS plastic or whatever that for the mold model? Have you heard of "lost foam casting" and "investment casting" where wax is used for the model part? If I'm not mistaken the molten metal itself does the "burning out" during the pour.

So lets see the motor actually running.

In outrunner electric motors magnets are pushed with centrifugal force to outer frame. Its more safe. Also outrunners have more torque, than inrunners.

Cool video, but SO much background noise when talking. Need to fix that 😉

Would the 3d print plastic still be inside the metal?

You could have added material like clay to the ends of the casting or even printed in extra length and then machined it off on the lathe. As well as you could have drilled the center hole on the lathe.

I dont burn out my PLA I just use a hollow print, bury it in sand and pour the aluminium straight in.

aha, lathe and cnc is the way to go. Perfect balancing of the stator is required or you'll end up replacing the bushing / bearings more often than you'd like to.

the top not filling completely looked like shrinkage to me.
I would make the sprues thicker and add a thick(er) riser to keep the heat in. looks like a sweeeet casting! (Another guy who does garage casting with little protective gear lol)

Thanks for the insight into this process. When you assemble your videos it'd be ideal if you reduced the volume of the video audio track (the sound of the furnace?) to make it easier to hear the narration track.

audio is cancer

What happen to the plastic did it melt ?

You should also note, that you need to make the part about 3% larger than full size to account for metal shrink once it's finished cast. Every metal is a little different, but Aluminum is 3%.

you need to tell people to do this in a well ventilated place if they are not going to do it outside

cheers for that, good guide there.

A little bit of editing on the sound in the future + a mic
( i can recommend the blue snowball for dubbing)
And you will be at 100k in notime 🙂

Why not just print it as a mold

Nie work!
I believe what happened to the top of your cast is caused by shrinkage between the liquidus and the solidus, it could be avoided next time by adding a feeder to the top of your cast (which could replace your vent holes)

Why not desolve the PLA with water? Is it so you don't add extra moister to the plaster?

Wow nice!!!