Jon Snow’s sword (my interpretation) from the book “Game of Thrones”. This vid shows the blade made by stock removal and assembly of the sword with the parts made from the part 1 vid. The blade is hardened and tempered 1075 high carbon steel. To see more swords, go to:
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You swords are truly masterpieces. I wish you had more videos.
Amazing work! Could you show us how you make the scabbard?
Do you know any effective methods of putting a fuller into a blade without using a belt grinder?
Nice sword! I have a couple of questions. What sanding disc did you use on your angle grinder, why did you use it instead of the belt sander? Also did you make the heat treating oven youself and what is it powered by?
Otherwise I like your vids and keep making beautiful swords!
Very nice. Do you weld with silver? And i acid you use on the brass? Hope to see som more blir knifs an daggers. Maby an seax. Thanks for many good videos
All the blades are great, but those cast-bronze elements do look a bit plastic-like. Perhaps it’s worth trying different patina?
What's the chances of your custom swords (as well has Fable Blades custom swords) breaking? Are they 110% fully functional? (I only ask because I am considering commissioning a sword to be built by either you or Fable Blades and if possible, both of you to work together)
would you say the hardest part of making most of your swords would be the sculpting of the pommels?
superb work
i've watched a lot of your videos and you're obviously very skilled at what you do. I've noticed that most of your hilts and guards are mode of bronze and use somewhat similar finish, do you ever think about using different material or finish/color? (I only noticed because i'm a fan of the Game of thrones and the wolf's head was supposed to be white). Though they do say, If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Amazing work !!
hey +brotherbanzai can you makee a vid on the scabberds
You're welcome. Best of luck.
Thank you! It will help me a lot!
Sharp corners should be avoided as that can lead to cracks. The transition from the blade to the tang should be rounded. Also, the shoulder of the blade should sit inside the cross, not on top of it.
People are a bit spoiled by cheap, mass produced products. Anything done by hand or that requires a practiced skillset is going to be expensive. I always find it amusing that people won't bat an eye at paying a lawn service $25 an hour to cut the grass or a mechanic $85 an hour to work on a car but expect everyone else to work at minimum wage or less because they saw something remotely similar from China available for $19.95 at walmart.
hi, i'm learning what I can about blacksmith (just love the art of it and all the culture involved), and I'm doing myself my very first dagger/aim-sword. And I have a doubt: the part where the blade meets with the cross, does it need to be straight, round or it doesn't matter?
Just reading some of the comments about you charging too much money ..Some people just don't get it to have a unique custom made work of art takes time ,skill ,and hard work .ive experienced this myself I'm an Airbrush Artist and people want you to paint stuff for next to nothing ..outrageous
Thank you, glad you like my work.
I just recently came across your YouTube channel and after seeing how amazing your work is I went to the bank and opened a savings account for the soul purpose of one day having enough money for you to make me a custom sword. A truly custom made fully functional sword is absolutely worth the price your charging for them. Thank you for all the effort you put into your craft and keep up the good work.
Thanks, I will 🙂
Keep up the great work….
🙂
You are my HERO
1:48 longclaws fat brother
The website listed at the end of the video and in the video description will answer all those questions.
House robbers had better not mess with him
How much for the sword and labor also what is the full length of the sword and does it come with the sheath
Maybe for a knife, but not a sword blade. Depends on the steel, type of blade, and personal preference. A hardness in the low 50's is optimal for me for a sword blade. Harder than that is a bit on the brittle side unless differentially tempered in my opinion.
May i ask why you tempered it to blue tempering colour, i thought that would be soft and the optimum colour would be around dark straw and yellow straw.