We made it to the finish line, this video will complete the series.

Gear Down for What Channel:

Metal Casting 3d Printed Gearbox
Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

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3D printed Castings-

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15 COMMENTS

  1. Thanks so much for this series. I am currently casting pewter in a high temp silicon and plan to try aluminum casting based on your process. In the future please give this another shot, perhaps with simpler gears.

  2. The split parts, can't you just scale them up 6%? I'd print out 6 or 7 of them ranging from 4% 4.5, 5, 5.5 6 6.5 and 7% bigger than your first one. Also, the split, don't wedge it so far apart to avoid the gear teeth bending together at different rates around the ring. I'd also add some copper to the aluminum to add some flexibility to the finished part (and hardness).

  3. I really wish you would give it another go, after you figure out how to recycle the plaster. The layman in me says to measure the circumference of the rings and make a straight piece the same size to determine the linear shrinkage. Then upscale the ring that much, problem still remains wether or not the teeth will be properly sized at that point. I would imagine this is much like printing with abs in that long straight geometry will curl due to linear shrinkage. Good job anyway was very interesting to watch.

  4. When doing metal casting aluminum a 3% oversize pattern is needed for the metal cooling shrinkage ex:  if you need a 1 inch diameter by 2 inchs long cylinder than your pattern will need to be 1.030 in dia by 2.060 in long  these dimensions will allow the finished part to be close to the tolerances of the cooled shrinked part of the above nominal dimensions  Steve

  5. I recently learnt about shrinkage and controlling it in casting. It was to do with adding a colloidal silica liquid to the investment material. See my casting 101 vid for more info.

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