Winter has come for Johnnie Walker as US editor W. Blake Gray gives his verdict on two tie-in bottlings.
By W. Blake Gray | Posted Thursday, 31-Oct-2019
Since nearly everyone hated the ending of the Game of Thrones TV show, it’s a little surprising to see Game of Thrones whiskies pop up prominently in liquor stores.
Product tie-ins have to be decided long in advance, so Diageo decided to make its two Johnnie Walker Game of Thrones whiskies back when we still hoped for a sensible finish. To the show, that is. For the whiskies, I don’t know what your expectations are for bottles of blended Scotch called A Song of Ice and A Song of Fire, but a long, graceful finish wasn’t among mine.
I did expect these whiskies to be competent, and they are. They’re not flashy: they’re more Ned Stark than Robb Stark; more Young Griff than Empress Daenerys, breaker of chains and mother of hangovers.
It’s an interesting challenge for Diageo, the world’s largest whisky company, to assemble whiskies to represent House Stark and House Targaryen. Diageo has single malts from all over Scotland and it can make pretty much anything it wants. So, what did it want?
For A Song of Ice, representing House Stark, Diageo decided that the whisky should have a “crisp, clean taste.” Philosophically it’s the more successful of the two. The Starks live austere lives and this is an austere dram. It’s light in color like most non-age statement whiskies, and has almost no aroma other than alcohol.
What A Song Of Ice, The Whisky has going for it is a fairly simple palate with a hint of golden apple. The alcohol taste is prominent, but the texture is not harsh. I can and will use this in cocktails, though the other ingredients will have to provide the flavors.
Johnnie Walker suggests drinking it over ice, and I do like the way ice affects the mouthfeel. It’s smooth and crisp on the finish. It’s still short on flavor for my taste, but I can see this as a whisky for people who like vodka and soda. It’s inoffensive and 40.2 percent alcohol; some will see these as virtues.
A Song of Fire is supposed to “roar” with a “rich, spicy” and slightly smokey flavor. Unfortunately this might be a blast from Viserion, the dragon that turned into a zombie, because its smoke is out. It’s darker in color than ASOI and smells more like light Bourbon to me than Scotch: golden raisins and caramel. It’s also much more flavorful than its rival for the Tie-In Throne, with caramel sweetness and raisin notes. But while the back label copy mentions peat, there’s little if any on the palate. It’s flashy, but I wouldn’t call it fiery. If you like to drink straight, it’s the more interesting dram.
I was surprised that it fell apart over ice (say it ain’t so, Viserion!) It’s as if its elements separate with a wee touch of water and don’t recombine; the finish is noticeably harsher. It puts me in the odd position of preferring it in general to A Song of Ice, but not being sure how I would drink it. I don’t like it enough to drink straight, and at its price level there are several entry-level Scotches that are good enough for that. But maybe it doesn’t play well with others.
I do love the bottle designs. There are no Targaryen or Stark characters; no share of the profits for Emilia Clarke or Sophie Turner. But there is a snarling direwolf on the Ice, a rather satisfied-looking dragon on the Fire, and the Johnnie Walker man walking with complete calm away from these monsters with his hand holding the brim of his hat so it doesn’t get blown off.
I would not buy one of these whiskies for myself; as I said, you can do better in this price range. But they’re competent, and the packaging makes them reasonable as holiday presents for your friends who are still big fans of the show. Best of all, those friends are prepared for disappointment, and the fact that these whiskies are mediocre instead of stupid and soul-sucking like the show’s ending will come as a pleasant surprise.
