Wax 3d Printer Filament Review-MachinableWax Print2Cast 10% Discount

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Hey i tryed it on my cr 10 but it can only get down to 170 degrees og all my prints lifts og the bed and i use tape and glue, is it very importen to print at 145 ???

Just a tip about flow percentage, since i keep seeing people adjust percentage rather than diameter. You need to use calipers to find the diameter. Most filament is not a 1.75 average, that number is the system its designed for (1.75 or 3mm) and not the effective average of that spool. Spools vary even between the same batch of the same brand and color (things like a pressure front, for example, like a thunder storm while a batch is in progress, will change the diameters just slightly, but enough that it will affect the print if you dont compensate for it). So instead of usinf flow percentage, hit it with calipers and average the measurements. This is a much, much more accurate way to do it and solves the cast majority of the problems that beginners encounter (especially S3D users because of the hard coded -7% flow that they refuse to remove from the slicer). Flow percentage is used more for an engineering scenario. Say you have a single wall RC plane like 3dLabPrint's planes… Single walls need to be used with it for weight reasons, and need to be very strong. In these situations, you use flow % (after, and only after using calipers to find your average diameter over a few meters of each individual spool), so for example, you set it to 103%. In short, this presses more filament out on the same line, meaning that single wall print will now have a much higher bond strength and allows something like a wing to be structurally sound despite the single wall. You generally raise temp about 5C in these situations to keep viscosity the same (more filament flow needs more heat because the heating time for each cubic millimeter is shorter. Try it once, and see if this doesnt solve most of your problems. If you still have flow issues after calibration, this means you have a mechanical problem, not bad filament. So dont go hurting manufacturer sales and reputation for a filament you arent using correctly.

Are there any casting shrink factors involved? Have u faced any issues while casting to metal?

The 1.75mm rolls are about $45 with your code at the moment, just over $60 for delivery to the UK though lmao.

great info thanks

I keep coming across your videos. I am subbed now but before I subbed I saw your anet videos everywhere. This is by far the most under rated 3d printing channel. I know its not just 3d printing but a lot of it is. I have an A8 and just ordered a CR-10 hopefully you will end up getting a CR-10 because I'd love to see video on it by you.

Hi!I want to state my experience as a jeweler.In jewelry we can fine sand the wax models we make in little time so probably this can be done and with the 3d-printed wax models to obtain a a quite smooth surface and after casting.Of course then you will also have to sand it but it would need much less time.Nice videos keep up the good work!!

Great video, thanks! Thinking about getting some, but will be close to $100 to the UK :'(

nice stuff

Does the wax actually burn out? or does it melt out?

What was the command to get lower print temps, how do I input it to my Anet A8?

does it burn like candle wax?

It amazes me that such a filament even exists. As 3d printing evolves, the versatility is getting to be pretty astounding. Your videos are very informative. Keep up the great work.

your print settings yield you 4 bottom and top solid layers due to layer thickness at 0.2mm and top/bot thickness 0.8mm fyi, and pretty sure the low temp override Gcode command is M302, alcohol wipe the bed prior to printing to improve sticking

That's cool. I wonder if the wasted failed parts could be melted into like a candle shape then forced threw a die and reused as filament again? maybe even melted out of the mold could be saved and reused…. maybe many times